Seasonal Home Maintenance Tasks Most Owners Forget Until Something Breaks

A sump pump that sits idle through winter can seize, clog, or lose its float switch without any warning. The fix is simple: once in early spring, pour a bucket of water into the pit and confirm the pump activates and drains properly. Also check that the discharge line is clear of ice, debris, or obstructions at the exit point. If the pump runs but drains slowly, or doesn't activate at all, have it inspected before the first heavy rain arrives.

Pumps typically have a service life of 7–10 years. Knowing your unit's age matters as much as testing it.

Expansion joints — the narrow gaps between concrete sections on driveways, sidewalks, and patios — allow the material to shift with temperature changes. When the flexible filler in these joints cracks or shrinks, water infiltrates, accelerating freeze-thaw damage and undermining the slab edge. Walk your driveway and patio annually, ideally in late fall, and look for joints where the filler has pulled away, crumbled, or gone missing. Self-leveling polyurethane sealant is the standard repair material and is a manageable DIY project for most homeowners.

Mineral sediment accumulates at the bottom of tank water heaters over time, reducing efficiency and shortening the unit's lifespan. Flushing the tank annually — or at minimum every two years — clears this buildup. Turn off the heater's power or gas, connect a garden hose to the drain valve, and let the tank drain into a floor drain or outdoors. Some discoloration in the water is normal; heavy sediment or rust-colored water warrants a closer look at the anode rod and overall tank condition.

Safety note: If your water heater is showing signs of corrosion, persistent pilot outages, or age beyond 10–12 years, have a licensed plumber assess it before performing maintenance.

The temperature and pressure (T&P) relief valve is a critical safety device on every tank water heater. It opens automatically if pressure or temperature exceed safe limits. Yet many homeowners have never touched it. Once a year, briefly lift or press the test lever — you should hear or see a small discharge of water into the drainpipe. If nothing releases, or if the valve continues dripping after the test, it needs replacing. This is a job for a licensed plumber if you're unfamiliar with water heater components.

Cleaning the lint trap after every load is good practice, but lint also accumulates inside the duct that runs from the dryer to the exterior exhaust vent. Restricted airflow forces the dryer to work harder, extends drying times, and — critically — creates a fire hazard. At least once a year, disconnect the dryer, pull the duct free, and clean it with a vent brush kit. Also check the exterior flap: it should open freely during operation and close when the dryer is off. Nesting animals sometimes block this vent entirely.

Weatherstripping compresses and deteriorates over years of use, allowing conditioned air to escape and pests or moisture to enter. A simple test: on a bright day, close an exterior door and look for light around the frame. Any visible gap means the seal has failed. Replacement weatherstripping for standard doors is inexpensive and requires only a utility knife and adhesive or screws, depending on the type. Garage door bottom seals deserve the same attention — they also keep out insects, rodents, and water.

Garage doors cycle hundreds of times a year. Rollers, hinges, and the opener chain or screw drive need periodic lubrication to prevent premature wear and reduce noise. Use a silicone-based spray or dedicated garage door lubricant — not WD-40, which is a solvent and can attract dust. Apply to hinges, rollers (the roller shaft, not the track), and the opener's moving parts. While you're at it, test the auto-reverse safety feature by placing a 2x4 flat on the floor in the door's path: the door should reverse upon contact.